RE: UPDATE-Used motor home warrenty - 125 miles and I broke down
hershey . . .
Just out of curiosity, do you have a "Suzuki Grand Viagra" or a "Suzuki Grand Vitara?" Sounds like a Freudian slip or something...
Your signature line seems to indicates an unusually "frisky" vehicle.
hershey - albuquerque, nm
Someday Finally Got Here
My wife does all the driving - I just get to hold the steering wheel.
Expedition - Suzuki Grand Viagra
RE: UPDATE-Used motor home warrenty - 125 miles and I broke down
I doubt one us us here, doesn't sympathize with you. If Canada is anything like the US legal system, it is what it is.
But, if you signed anything that states "As Is, they are technically done. "As is" has to mean "As is." They are under no legal obligation, even if the seller stated that they "went over" the coach. Could be an honest mistake or simple oversight. But, if it wasn't "written" into the contract, it's not part of the deal.
Also, you could have had your own examination(s) of your intended purchase. I took ours home overnight before I purchased it. Drove it for hours. You just have to do your own "due diligence." I also am a fair mechanic, and VERY familiar with RV's. We ran every system all night. (on generator, pedestal and then on the inverter)
I'm sorry to "hear" of your experience. Did your mechanic miss the radiator too. It happens...
They might help you out with such a minor amount, but what happens if the block is cracked and you make this or other claims? Where does it end? Were I them, I would simply have to tell you about the "As Is" and if you proceed with the purchase under those conditions, I'm done.
A lot of emotional replies here, but unless they are doing something illegal, you'd have to be able to prove they knew the vehicle had a dirty radiator they knowingly sold it to you with poor maintenance issue, they knew of. Still the "As Is" may still protect the seller even in Canada. In this case, even if they saw the dirty radiator, it still took you 125 miles to ascertain you had a problem. ALL radiators are dirty in used vehicles to some extent unless new or just cleaned. I've never cleaned a radiator in any RV we've owned including this one. I don't know why mine never seem to get "dirty enough" to cause a problem. If I sell our RV, it will be "As Is." I'll tell you that up front. But I won't be able to pay for a dirty radiator on your vehicle after the sale.
None of us also know what you were offered, but I was offered a service contract from the dealer. In spite of all my testing, I chose to purchase a service agreement because my "total" ended up being cheaper. Why? Because the bank felt better about this expensive vehicle being covered with a warranty, they gave me a MUCH better interest rate with the service contract (go figure) I can't even imagine that they didn't offer you a service contract.
I mean no dis-respect, it is what it is.
RE: IE 8 Beta
Doing a little research on Chrome and came across this paragraph:
"Chrome can be a little unstable, which is not surprising considering that it is a beta. Also, I have found that Flash does not work with Chrome on my Vista-based system, though my two colleagues running XP had no issues with Flash compatibility. They did, however, experience software crashes when searching in the history section. And when Chrome crashes, it takes everything with it unless you manually configure the browser to act otherwise (the configuration options are buried under the wrench icon, in the Options/Basics menu). In contrast, Mozilla Firefox and Microsoft Internet Explorer 8 automatically restore your previous session in the event of a crash."
Will someone that is running chrome care to comment?
I simply haven't had a crash (XP Pro) with Chrome. After reading your post, I didn't specifically know what to try to make it fail, but I "wore out" the history files. Nothing. Do you have any specifics as to what they might be doing at the time of failure? I'd like to try it. The thing is, it might be some other combination of programs, Anti-Virus issues, security issues, etc. If this person could post the list of applications and/or processes using something like "Hijackthis" or "Process Explorer," I'd sure like to see it.
RE: IE 8 Beta
I'm running GOOGLE Chrome and it seems solid. I had 4 PC's go out today after they installed SP3 too. I had to un-install IE8. Too unstable. (mainly lockups)
I'm using GOOGLE's Chrome browser. So far, great. No "issues" whatsoever.
RE: Google Chrome, free Browser from google
I really like it. It seems to open a bit faster then FireFox3 on mine. So far, nothing unusual. I like it as well as FF3 so far. I like it's integration with OUTLOOK WEB so far, MUCH BETTER than Firefox3. So far REMOTE WEB WORKPLACE is working well too.
RE: Who does Cabinet Re-Do for New TVs?
I will say I have fabrication skill and a shop, but I just did the rear TV today. (front TV on order and won't be here until tomorrow) I think you will find any extensive modifications, maybe "quite expensive" at any quality shop.
We just took VERY careful measurements and took off to find TV's that fit the existing space most completely. I then made a "base compartment" under the rear TV. That compartment can simply hold the remote or whatever, in our case, it will house a DVD player. (and the remotes) It looks very much factory built or installed.
The unfortunate thing is that you may have to use different brands doing it this way, as we did. Samsung rear, SONY front, but at least the cabinets don't require extensive modification.
If you really don't think you can do this, maybe consider doing "it" this way and just "fit" a TV to the existing opening. This should cost a great deal less to have something built this way.
RE: RV generator and A/C unit wiring HELP PLEASE!
I'd do what is required by code. (NEC) Although I'm not exactly sure what that would be, I can only tell you what I would do. I WOULD install a small breaker panel for no other reason than to have access to the breakers should you need to quickly "kill" everything. (I'll conceed you could just use a master on/off switch too) Yes, the generator has maximum current breakers, but, it just seems so much "cleaner and safer," to join all outlets, AC feeds and, and the heater strip(s) (if separate) in a small breaker panel. Put everything in EMT or "greenfield." (I'm assuming all connections will be exposed/surface mount) Install a few industrial grade lamps with protected housings while you are at it.
I still would consider a way to externally power the system from an external source, even if you think you'll never use it. You get to a big job and the generator doesn't start, you could still rent another generator.
RE: 30 amp---50 amp---
Most coaches that run two AC units on 30 amp power systems have an EMS. BUT, I've seem several coaches with 30 amp systems and NO EMS, that still run both at the same time.
RE: Will reformat erase all previous information?
To really be sure, beat the daylights out of the HD with a sledge hammer. Well, alright, you have to send it back, but, the data can be recovered even if erased and sometimes even if it's been written over with several passes. However, if you've written over the disk even with one pass, it get s VERY hard to recover.
RE: Propane modification
I picked up a gas port for the grill at Camping World and 24' of hose to the grill. I also picked up the stuff at Walmart that I needed to run an auxiliary tank in to the grill port to run the coach if the main tank is empty. Ran out of propane on a long trip and simply started using 20 pound cylinders. The port for the grill is a convenient place to add the auxiliary tanks back in to the system when the 80 gallon tank is empty.
RE: Where can you get National RV Parts?
JerryofWV . . .
The picture is there. I've looked at about twenty parts sites and didn't see that exact latch assemble. I'd consider sending your picture of the latch/lock to Ortega as was recommended and as many of the other RV parts sites as possible. It may be that other type will fit. Maybe take one out and take it to stores to compare with slightly different models.
RE: Switching to Synthetic oil?
Wow... now sludge too... hey ... It's a miracle, simply a miracle. Buy Japanese? Apparently someone, maybe, you and Chrysler don't get along too well.
I never said it was a scam. I might have said simply un-necessary, hype, perhaps even a stupid idea under the circumstances, but not a scam.
Trust me, the engineers and designers of RV engines, both gas and diesels, understand the extremes to which the engines will be subjected to.
Just because you two "feel the need" to use synthetic oil, doesn't make it a bit more reasonable for others to do so. I've never had a block fail due to sludge or oil failure. I simply won't purchase a more expensive product for no reason. It's dumb. Just tell me what you solved? Nothing, you "feel" you've done something good and are willing to "die on a sword" to defend nothing more than your "decision" to buy a much more expensive lubricant.
I commend Mobile 1's marketing ability to convince the vehicle manufacturers listed above, to use the "princess lubricants." I'm pretty sure those same engines will run well on most modern oils too. Now, don't scream "warranty," I simply won't care.
Now, go again, either one or both of you. I might even check back again to see how next, a person justifies, paying 3 maybe 4 times the price of a perfectly adequate, even recommended product, and then gaining nothing but a "feeling."
RE: Generator Air vs. Dash Air
jedfoley . . .
I'm running 24 amps of AC, typically up to 8 amps on batteries, 4 more amps for TV's or other appliances. Then it goes up from there as to whether she's cooking, either microwave or convection.
If you're saying I'm running an extra 5 gallons of diesel on the main engine per hour for the dash air, well that's just nuts. I'm comfortable with about 6 maybe 7 gallons per hour to run 65 mph down a road fueling a 350 hp diesel pushing up to 32,000 pounds, but "No," it does not take an extra 5 gallons per hour to run my dash air.
That's "NUTS." (AND a stupid comment)
RE: Anyone using a 110 Volt macerator ?
Well, OK, but has asked for a macerator, not a gravity drained garbage disposal unit. But I'll salute your creativity...
It may be "gravity drained", but it pumps uphill 5 feet thru a 100ft, 5/8" garden hose to the sewer drain.
I 'gotta ask. Do you have the make and model of your unit?
You're saying you have a standard garbage disposal unit (grinder only) that still manages to "lift" 5, and then still push "slurry" (for lack of a more politically correct verbiage) 100 feet? Did I understand that right?
I like all things plumbing, I have no idea why. (and I'm good at it too) But I had no idea you could do this with a garbage disposal unit. I think I'm about to learn something new!
RE: Generator Air vs. Dash Air
I agree with chiefcramer, I think it is closer to 1/2 gallon per hour. If it starts to get warm (notice I am from Arizona)that happens pretty quick, the gen ACs come on. Once it starts to get HOT the Dash AC comes on. With the sun shinning through the front window, it gets pretty uncomfrotable pretty quick.
Happy RVing
You might be quoting "half loads"
Right from Onan's site:
.7 gallon for the QD 6000 per hour at full load
1.02 gallon for the QD 8000 per hour at full load
No "7000" listed but I'd bet it's between these two.
By the way, if it's summer, all three are on. straight roads, mountains, swamps, always on. The CUMMINS never heats up a bit. Allison will warm up a bit, but even then, not much.
RE: Generator Air vs. Dash Air
chiefcramer . . .
Well ours is a Quiet Diesel and runs closer to 3/4 gallon of diesel per hour at the higher RPM. (moderate load) Some do run a bit more. With no load it's closer to .4 per hour. But even one AC unit on kicks the generator in to high speed.
I think he might have rounded up for "example" sake. I think if you cut his 1 to .75 he's still short.
